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Milano

I did not know until the tour that some of my distant relatives were involved in building the church. This unexpected historical connection added a layer of depth to our visit. My 19th great-grandfather, Bernardo Visconti, the Lord of Milan, was not nice. He was a despot and levied high taxes on the Milanese; he was eventually deposed by his nephew, Galeazzo, in 1385, imprisoned, and died, presumably by poison. This led to the church’s building by Galaezzo and his cousin Archbishop Antonio da Saluzzo, another distant relative.

The Duomo ( Basilica of the Nativity of Saint Mary ) itself is just incredible. It is constructed from marble from a mine owned by the Visconti family and is one of only two buildings that uses this marble. It took six centuries to complete, from 1386 to 1965. You can also tour the site of the original church, which is just below and to the front of the current church and clearly marked on the piazza out front. 

After the Duomo we lucked out and picked a great restaurant in the Gallaria, unfortunately I don’t remember the name, but maybe you can find from the photo. After Lunch we toured La Scala, which was pretty interesting even if you are not a ballet fan. Finally we met a knew friend Luca and had another Spritz to end the day.

The Sforzesco Castle was originally built in the 15th century by Francesco Sforza, Duke of Milan. It was constructed on the remains of a 14th-century fortress and turned into a grand Renaissance court. Over the centuries, it was expanded and used by various ruling powers — Spanish, French, and Austrians — even serving as a military barracks.There's what you expect to see and then seeing what you never could have imagined.  True, unique experiences unlike a traditional tour of Italy..

Bologna

We had an excellent guide in Bologna provided by Phil~italy. One the most fascinating parts of the tour was the tour of the Jewish ghetto.

The Bologna Ghetto was established in 1556 when the Jewish community in Bologna was confined to a small, enclosed area near Via dell’Inferno. It was created by papal decree under Pope Paul IV, a decision that reflected the broader policies of the Catholic Church to segregate and control Jewish populations. Life in the ghetto was marked by discrimination, economic hardship, and restrictions on movement, though the community maintained its cultural and religious traditions. In 1593, the Jews were expelled from Bologna altogether, and the ghetto was emptied. Today, the former ghetto area is a vibrant part of the city, with signs and landmarks commemorating its historical significance.

During the Black Plague, the Jewish community in Bologna, like many others in Europe, faced increased persecution as they were often scapegoated for the spread of the disease. Within the Bologna Ghetto, residents endured harsh living conditions, including overcrowding, poor sanitation, and limited access to medical care, which likely exacerbated the impact of the plague on the population. Despite their suffering, the Jewish community demonstrated remarkable resilience, maintaining their traditions even in the face of disease and discrimination.

One of the lesser-known facts about the Neptune Fountain is the optical illusion ingeniously designed by Giambologna. From a specific angle, Neptune’s thumb aligns perfectly with his groin, creating the illusion of an erect phallus. This subtle rebellion against the church’s censorship showcases Giambologna’s cleverness and perhaps a hidden critique of the era’s moral constraints.

Modena

My daughter loves cars, especially expensive ones. So when I mentioned Modena, she asked, “What’s there?” “Ferrari.” “I’m in!”

Truly a great museum, and a really good cafe, better than the one we stopped at on the way there, although a bit more expensive.

At least 20 cars are on display, with a short video, gift shop $$$$ and a simulator for 25 Euros. 

You can also tour the Ferrari home with a few more cars, more on the story and several engines on display.

When booking with Phil~italy mention Italian Roots and Genealogy

Ferrara

Ferrara is not your typical tourist destination in Italy, but it was on my bucket list as it is the birthplace of my 13th great-grandmother, Isabella d’Este. I was a bit disappointed only because there was very little mention of the d’Este women. But I guess a trip back to the Renaissance days.

The d’Este family was one of the most powerful and influential dynasties of the Italian Renaissance, with roots tracing back to the 10th century. Originating from Lombardy, the family rose to prominence through military service, strategic marriages, and political alliances. They were initially feudal lords in the region of Este, near Padua, and by the 13th century had established themselves as the ruling family of Ferrara, Modena, and Reggio. Their rule over Ferrara, in particular, was legitimized by the Holy Roman Empire and later the Papacy, securing their position as one of Italy’s princely houses.

Under the leadership of figures like Niccolò III, Borso d’Este, and Ercole I, Ferrara flourished as a center of culture, learning, and the arts. The Este court became a hub for Renaissance humanism, drawing artists, poets, and scholars from across Europe. The family commissioned grand architectural projects, sponsored renowned painters such as Piero della Francesca and Titian, and supported musicians and writers like Ludovico Ariosto, author of Orlando Furioso. Their sophisticated court culture and patronage rivaled that of the Medici in Florence.

The d’Este legacy extended beyond Ferrara when Alfonso I married Lucrezia Borgia, tying the family to the infamous Borgia lineage and further consolidating their power. However, the family’s fortunes began to wane in the late 16th century. When Alfonso II died without an heir in 1597, Ferrara was claimed by the Papal States, although the family retained control over Modena and Reggio until 1796. Despite the eventual decline of their political power, the Este family left an enduring legacy through their contributions to the Italian Renaissance and the cultural development of northern Italy.

Firenze

There is so much to see and do in Firenze. The statue of David, The Uffizi Museum, the great view from La Loggia, Pitti Palace, the model train museum, not to mention great food and steak. And you must try a wine window. There are only a few working windows left, but it is fun to knock on the window and get a glass of wine. At one time there were hundreds.

Venice

We enjoyed Venice a lot, although the crowds by St. Mark’s were unbelievable. We had a great guide who recommended the best spot to get a gondola ride and also to have lunch… 1000 Pizza was the place, excellent. I never thought I would get in a Gondola but when your there it’s kind the thing to do and not bad, 90 Euros for the boat that holds up to 6 people.

Pisa

Pisa was about an hours train ride from Florence, but you did have about ½ walk from the train station. We had a ticket that got us into the baptistry, church and 3 museums. Unfortunately the day we were there they had some sort of race so many of the streets were blocked off and we had to skip one museum as we could not figure out the way around the barricades.

Bellano

Our final stop was a little town on lake Como called Bellano. We took the train from Florence to Milan and then another from Milan to Bellano. We just wanted a quaint quite place to relax before returning home. Phil~italy got us a very nice hotel on the lack with breakfast included. We also found that there was a hidden waterfall walk ups the mountain.

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